Presentation of Bell & Ross Aéronavale and its vintage collection Parisian watchmaker Bell & Ross is more than just their signature square case, their Vintage collection proves so much more. We take a look at how the brand managed to create a "Vintage" collection that's both vintage and bold and modern.

There's no denying that Bell & Ross' 'square with a circle' timepieces, inspired by aviation instruments, gained instant recognition. Make no mistake, icon or not, this polarizing design isn't for everyone. So, for lovers who appreciate what the brand stands for, the French luxury watchmaker has launched their Vintage collection of round cases that also feature aviation and military inspiration. The Bell & Ross Vintage Aéronavale timepieces, for example, also have aviation influences, but are more specifically inspired by the ceremonial uniforms of the French Naval Aviation. But while these timepieces have a traditional shape, their function — and even, to a large extent, their form — is not. With complications such as chronograph, flyback function and small seconds, as well as bold color matching,

The Bell & Ross Vintage Aéronavale timepieces also have aviation influences, but are more specifically inspired by the ceremonial uniforms of the French Naval Aviation.

Aéronavale takes inspiration from naval aviation uniforms
The 41mm round stainless steel case of the Vintage Aéronavale features a dark blue sunburst dial with gold plated Arabic numerals at 1 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock, other hour markers with gold baton hour markers, gold The skeletonized chronograph hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. In contrast, the white minute track complements the blue and gold of the timepiece. The rotating bezel is finished in the same navy blue tone as the dial, with a gold-tone 10-minute marker, and the coin edge matches the crown edge with the brand's symbol logo.

The chronograph version of this blue Aéronavale timepiece features Arabic numerals only at 12 and 6 o'clock, while the other hour markers are marked with golden batons. The horizontal bicompax dial features small seconds at 3 o'clock and a 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock, with concentric circular graining in the sub-dials and a contrasting gold outline around them. This chronograph has vintage-style pushers on either side of the crown.

A gorgeous blue handmade calfskin strap adds vintage appeal to both watches. The reflective effect of the sunburst dial complements the way the beautiful padded leather strap reflects light at different angles. Beige stitching on the strap complements the gold plating on the dial, completing the vintage look of this modern Vintage Aéronavale timepiece. The strap is secured with a satin-finished steel deployant clasp engraved with the Bell & Ross brand name.

Beneath the blue Aéronavale finish is the automatic mechanical movement BR-301, beating at 28,800vph, offering a 42-hour power reserve and 100m of water resistance. A modern twist on this vintage watch is the sapphire crystal caseback that reveals the movement inside.

Matte black and vintage beauty
The BR V2-94 Black Steel is another example of a gorgeous black vintage dial paired with a beautiful handcrafted calfskin strap. Matte black dial with Super-LumiNova coated hour markers and Arabic numerals 12 and 6, skeletonized metal hands filled with luminous material, and twin apertures for small seconds at three o'clock and 30-minute register at nine o'clock layout. The matte black dial accentuates the satin finish of the 41mm stainless steel case and the anodized black aluminum ring and tachymeter scale on the steel bezel.

On this matte model, the ultra-curved sapphire crystal stands out with greater contrast, accentuating the smooth finish of the entire timepiece. The BR-301 movement also powers the matte black vintage model, and like its aero-naval cousin, the movement can be viewed through the display case back.

The popular glowing neon, "neo-retro" orange
As a brand, Bell & Ross has come to be associated with their bold approach to watchmaking and emphasizing what needs to be emphasized. Their goal, it seems, is not just to be different, but to make timepieces a must-have tool, not just an accessory. For this, and naturally, the timepiece has a high level of legibility in the "instrument" class. As a result, their BR V2-92 Full Lum (a code that stands for "full luminescence") and BR V2-92 Orange timepieces offer perfect legibility in all lighting conditions.

The round 41mm stainless steel case of the BR V2-92 Full Lum features a pale pistachio green dial with bold black Super-LumiNova skeletonized hands, and luminescent Arabic numerals and hour markers outlined in black. The dial is framed by a black bi-directional bezel and uses the same coin edge as the crown, but the latter is partially hidden by the crown guard. In dim light conditions, this seemingly understated timepiece acquires a new identity, with Super-LumiNova playing a starring role on the dial’s canvas. Against the backdrop of the black rubber strap, the Full Lum dial has a stunning psychedelic effect.

The BR V2-92 Orange features similar hour markers and Super-LumiNova-coated hands, and its “neo-vintage” Coast Guard Orange dial stands out during the day, reminiscent of 70s skateboarding. Paired with a steel bracelet or a contrasting black textured rubber strap, this watch looks retro enough just for its round bright orange dial.

These round Vintage models from Bell & Ross just go to prove what the brand has been trying to do since the beginning. By prioritizing function, this relatively young watchmaking brand has carved out a niche in the haute horlogerie world. While their round watches are self-explanatory, it's no easy feat to come up with a nice round "vintage" timepiece, especially when the two-century-old race is by definition vintage.